A for Aayi*

The monsoons were late. Just before the Ganapati festival, the rains came down heavily. Little Arvind and his mum were stranded at the railway station. Even on the platform, water leaked through the roof. The ladies' waiting room was the only place where one could stay or get dry. The ladies came in one by one and the far end of the L-shaped waiting room became the temporary changing corner as one after another the women streamed in to change sari or salwar-kameez. As three year old Arvind was entertaining himself with a handkerchief, his mother took the opportunity to revise the alphabet with him.
"A for..??"
"Chikoo" said Arvind promptly.
I burst out laughing as his mum looked embarrassed.
"A for!!" she repeated.
"Uncle" came the instant reply.
"Aunty!" I prompted, but Arvind had decided. It was A for Uncle.
Finally, after entertaining himself for a while longer. He abruptly walked up to his mum.
"A for Aayi" he said nonchalantly.
His mother smiled and hugged him tightly.

*Aayi means mother in Marathi

Particle physics, Doomsday, The Godfather, Jai Maharashtra

All of the above was in a week's work for India.
The Large Hadron Collider (LHC) that would smash two beams of particles head-on at super-fast speeds, recreating the conditions in the Universe moments after the Big Bang was declared to bring on the end of the world, because the "Black Hole" it would create would engulf the Earth and the entire Solar system.
No sooner had the myth been dispelled, and the country heaved a sigh of relief did descend the wrath of Raj Thackrey, leader of the Maharashtra Navnirman Sena (MNS) on the first family of Bollywood, the Bachchans. Because the audio release was addressed in Hindi, the National language instead of Marathi the local language.
Wha? Why?

Going Solo

Nonna Maria and Daniel


Fontanelle, Emilia Romagna

I had a rough night. At first I couldn't decide if I should sleep at all with that obnoxious, short, fat, bald, bejewelled Italian in dark glasses (lets call him OI for now) in the next room. I had feigned ignorance when he asked me to go for a walk with him.
Ya right!
But Nonna Maria said she would be sleeping downstairs and that I shouldn't worry, so I finally went to my room. When I eventually decided that leaving the television in the room on was not helping, and if I had to wake up at 5:30 am, I had beter sleep, I found it was too hot. I kept waking up drenched in perspiration.
At some point I must have finally fallen asleep, but then the skies went berserk. There was a long thunderstorm complete with lightening effects. I woke up not exactly perky.
Nonna Maria had prepared breakfast at 6:00 am in the morning! The home made butter, bread and jam and coffee in a soup bowl were the best I have ever had. It was an unexpected treat.
In addition, Iuri would not accept the fact that I could walk to the bus stop myself and was up and ready to drop me off. Nonna Maria sent me off with kisses and lots of good wishes and though I did see that OI again that morning, my trip to the Bassa was an experience like none other.

Going Solo

Fontanelle, Emilia Romagna

Sandro

Although there was the excitement of seeing Il Mondo Piccolo, I was apprehensive about the place. In La Provencia Della Parma, Fontanelle (not to be confused with Fontanellato) was in the middle of nowhere, literally. And as fate would have it, that is where I met Alessandro.
With eyes as blue as the legendary British cornflowers and golden
brown hair, and that smile!
With just "you", "me" and "stop" the only words in his English lexicon, we managed communication just fine.

We had exchanged a few polite sentences with Iuri as the translator before I had left for Fontanellato with the two Canadians.
Upon return from Fontanellato, I asked Iuri whether I could borrow his bicycle to tour Fontanelle. Sandro was in the backyard and I asked Iuri if he might like to join me. It would be nice to have company in the Bassa (flatlands of Emilia Romagna). Sandro was more than happy to join me and even took it upon himself to be my tour guide. We pedaled over the bridge into the little village, the birthplace of Giovannino Guareschi. While he kept looking over his shoulder to check if I was alright, I kept fearing he might fall over if he didn't look ahead.

The afternoon was wearing down and the village folk were cooling off in their front yards, greeting neighbours and catching up with the day's gossip in general. Sandro would greet them with a hearty "bongiorno" and ask how they had been as we cycled by.

He warmed up to my idea of taking pictures, and soon there was no field, bale of hay, turnstile or flower bush that he would not pose in front of. All I could do was laugh and click wherever he decided was good place to pose. I wish there were more willing models.
Sandro knew all the local vegetation in the Bassa and I found ourselves making sudden "stops". He plucked some grapes from a vineyard and we laughed as we screwed our faces for the grapes were literally sour. We then tasted some blackberries. These were audaciously taken from someone's front yard even as the owner himself was watering his garden.

As we rode back, Sandro suddenly veered into another front yard. He found a rosemary bush, rubbed his hands on it and made me smell them. He then took it into his head to pluck roses from a stunted rosebush, the same time as an elderly Nonna walked into the yard. I looked sheepish and was trying to make excuses in Italian accented English, while Sandro boldly walked up and asked if he could have the two roses. Nonna smiled and asked us to wait while she fetched a pair of scissors and clipped the flowers for Sandro. He handed me two pink roses and said "you". When I suggested that we could take them for Nonna Maria, the owner of the B & B, he shook his head and repeated "you". I couldn't stop myself from smiling.

When we headed back, I told Iuri about the roses, feeling guilty. He smiled as he said, "Sandro is a true Gentleman".

Back at the bed and breakfast, I realised it was dinnertime and Nonna Maria said that if I wanted to get something, I would have to go to the Cucinella soon. I picked up the bicycle again to pedal into Fontanelle and Sandro came running out. He said he didnt have enough time, but would go with me to the store. He insisted and I allowed him to come with me. We bought some sorbetto, hoping to eat it on the bench outside the Nonna Maria. However, we couldn't have the icecream together, for Sandro's parents were waiting to pick him up. It was way past the nine year old's bed time.

Going Solo

Riomaggiore, Le Cinque Terre, Liguria

GG left yesterday. After a brief visit to Vernazza (see right) and a fantastic ferry ride back, that allowed us to see the villages from the sea, GG boarded the train to Pisa.

I didn't know what to do with myself and it didn't take more than ten seconds for a serious bout of homesickness to set in.

Made a call to daddy. "Dad, can I please cancel my trip and go home?"
"Sure kid". Then dad laughed lightly at the other end, "just like that day at Cafe 100?" I could hear the ring in his laughter acknowledging that his daughter had not really grown up. I had no access to the Internet websites required to change my plans, so I asked Dad to ask B to do it for me.

B called back immediately. "I will do it for you, but remember, you will never break free of the Cafe 100 spot." I sighed as I realised he was right and asked him to hold off while I thought some more.

I made up my mind. I really wanted to go further, but it was the thought of spending time in the Cinque Terre, a complete set of beach towns that was bothering me. I would take advantage and go snorkeling tomorrow. That should help me spend major chunk of the day.

So after having made the decision, feeling proud of the self and turning in early, I was all prepared for Going Solo.

Travels with GG

Riomaggiore, Le Cinque Terre, Liguria

We woke up in Firenze in good time, but with waits and delays finally arrived at Riomaggiore after 1 pm. We found the reception and checked in to the assigned accomodation. The rooms allocated were not at that site but higher up somewhere in the cliff-side village.

The reception woman directed us to the steps that would take us to our rooms, and asked us to wait at the top, where another woman would appear and take us to our rooms. The stairs appeared to wind around so we couldn't see the end of them. When asked how many there were, the reception lady shook her head and said "very steps!"

With a 40 pound suitcase and two backpacks, we began the ascent. With GG and me taking turns, panting and sweating in the oppressive weather of the Cinque Terre, we arrived at the top of the steps. It was a Herculean feat. As we looked around feeling silly waiting in the middle of a road, another woman indeed appeared to take us to the room. We were soon to realise that the second leg of the journey was another set of "very steps" too!!

I was annoyed, but it wasn't the poor woman's fault. She was only the cleaning lady who had to make the same journey, sans suitcase, everyday to do her job.

GG counted about 400 steps on our way down!

Travels with GG

One last day was spent in a frenzy of shopping in Firenze, well, mostly, but also visiting Da Vinci's exhibits, Il Porcellino and Piazza Michelangelo. We exhausted ourselves thoroughly and had some of the best food we had eaten in three days - courtesy McDees. In my defence, they do Greek salad!

Travels with GG

Firenze, the girl from the sky, and fire

Part three: Fire

At about 2 pm, fire broke out in a fourth storey flat on Via Dei Rossi in Siena, Toscana. A fire truck and the Carabinieri were present. Firemen were elevated to the floor on the turntable ladder equipped with hoses. While attempting enter the apartment from the outside, a window was pried loose and crashed onto the street below. Smoke was being emitted from the windows as the firemen entered to check for any persons trapped inside. Neighbours and passers by were seen looking on interestedly. No one appeared to have been hurt.

Travels with GG

Firenze, the girl from the sky, and fire

Part two: The girl from the sky

After the awe-struck, sleep deprived day in Firenze, we finally arrived at the Florence Youth Hostel, ate a package meal (asparagus risotto - it was terrible) and slept. The sandman worked overtime that night.

At about 2:30 am, I found myself awake, screaming, my hand covering my mouth to stop me from doing so, and eyes staring at a girl sprawled on the floor next to my bed. I had been woken up by a massive crash involving the girl falling off the top bunk of the bed GG was sleeping in, and hitting her head against the bedside table. I thought she had died.

Soon enough, another girl appeared on the top bunk. Hearts palpitating, we managed to throw the two apologising, drunk English girls out of the room. I shut and locked the door, made sure I had the key with me, pushed the luggage against the door, and then GG and I sat and stared at each other.

What had just happened?

On closer inspection, we realised that they had been in the room for a bit, for the bathroom had been used. We were so dead to the world, we had no clue. How could we take care of ourselves if we were incapable of realising there were noisy intruders in the room. We couldn't sleep. The main worry - what if we slept too soundly again?

Well, there wasn't much that could be done so we tried to go back to bed. As we drifted into unconsciousness, we were alerted by a key rattling in the door again! What audacity. I got up, opened the door and told the girl off. Her excuse for the behaviour was that since her key didn't fit in the room she was assigned to, she simply tried other rooms and decided that she had the right to sleep in there. What cheek!

After having thrown them out for a second time, we found that turning the key halfway in the door would stop it from being pushed out the other side and that would prevent the room from being broken in a third time.

In the light of day, we saw the whole incident from a lighter perspective, but the crash had destroyed my ballpoint pen that lay on that bedside table. I therefore continue my chronicles in pencil.

Travels with GG

Firenze, the girl from the sky, and fire

Part one: Firenze, Toscana

We arrived sleep deprived and exhausted at 8 am at the Florence Youth Hostel, only to be told that we couldn't check in till 2 pm. There goes the long awaited nap, we thought. But, this is Firenze, and we have to make the most of it. So up Jack got, and home did trot (i.e.
we gathered forces, and marched forth after dumping the luggage).

We had hoped to catch some Zs on the bus from I'll Ciocco, but instead had a very interesting discussion on the unique properties of the brain transport proteins with a Stanford professor at 4 am.

The prospect of sleep on the train went out the window when Professor Clifford Slayman decided he had to tell us all the secrets to Firenze. He was so kind to recommend a restaurant where you get the best food in town. Across the river Arno from the Uffizzi Gallery, with an English-sounding name (erm..... English -sounding??? Food.....good???). Thank you very much, but me poor postdoc, I eat standing una slice pizza

Anyway, we were on the tourist route, so the first thing do do was look for a coffee. Boy, either I was too exhausted, or the cappuccino too good. I had to stop at two.

We then proceeded to the Duomo, Santa Maria Del Fiore, commissioned simply to show off. The Florentines were always competing with major cities for power, wealth, grandeur. Well, they sure don't have to worry about grandeur.

In general, you walk around the city gaping at the architecture, occassionally closing your mouth if you remember to.

Florence cannot be described easily.

Travels with GG

Il Ciocco, Toscana

Ditto as previous day. However, the perfect afternoon was somewhat dampened by the unwillingness to leave Il Ciocco the next night. Looking forward to the Gala Dinner tonight!

Travels with GG

Il Ciocco, Toscana

After briefly considering options, we decided on doing nothing. Sunglasses, a book, a deck chair, the pool behind, a view of the Media Valle before us, and a light breeze to cool us off. Some attempts were made to capture the scene in watercolour. Spent most of the time looking over the towns, the mountains and thinking of nothing. A perfect afternoon well spent.

Travels with GG

Barga, Toscana

It was a long hike via overgrown paths, through a sleepy town, over a brook, past ruins of an abandoned house and finally up a steep cobbled path that brought us to Barga. A small walled city, of course most everything was shut for the afternoon, and as we walked up and down the steep streets, we realised that we were crossed some piazzas more than once. No, we weren't lost, Barga was a small town. One of the loveliest places I have seen, and the ''most Scottish town in Italy''. Ice cream on the hot afternoon in the piazza by ''La Gelateria'' was well deserved. We moseyed back to the centre to find the waiting taxi and were driven back to Il Ciocco.

Travels with GG

Treppignana, Toscana

A short hike from I'll Ciocco, no map, but a set of written directions. Debating between the well worn path and the shortcut behind the tree stump, we decided on the short cut which led us to the sleepy hamlet of Treppignana. The only sign of habitation - freshly washed laundry drying in the Tuscan sun.
Walking up the narrow streets making unexpected turns we felt we were intruders in this quiet village. A red vespa parked against a window, shutters closed for the afternoon siesta, completed the picture of a lazy Tuscan afternoon. My attempt to capture the scene on film (okay, digitally) resulted in angry looks from a grey haired septugenerian who appeared out of nowhere, pretending to check on the drying laundry.
It was perfect!

Travels with GG

I'll Ciocco, Toscana

The pasta - al dente, the Parmiggiano - fragrant, the province - Lucca, Tuscany. What better way to celebrate life!

Travels with GG

I'll Torre Pendente

Twenty two years, a substantial amount of experience, and maybe even some bit of skepticism later, the Leaning Tower of Pisa still stands magestic. It left me as awestruck as it did then. A small regret that I could not climb those well worn steps with a dip in the middle as I remember them from all those years ago. Tens of people were caught on film in the act of trying to "support" the tower. I couldn't wipe the grin off my face as I sighted ancient Fiats, and made my way around saying "Bongiorno" and "Grazie".

Travels with GG

Stansted airport

5:00 am. Coffee and a sandwich. Felt right at that time in the morning. Sometimes you just know.

Cambridge

If you expect to see an old professor in a suit, riding a bicycle with a well worn wicker basket, you probably will. If you are hoping to dine in a six hundred year old dining room, chances are - you will. As I cycled down Hills road sometimes pedalling hard, sometimes freewheeling, the wind blowing through my hair, I had the old familiar feeling that all was right with the world.